That was the good news for this year's annual Niles family trip to central Florida. The bad? Well, several area physicians have fatter wallets this week, and the pharmacists at the Walgreens on 192 in Xentury City now know me by name.
We flew the 9 a.m. from LAX to Orlando on Mother's Day, arriving just before 5 p.m. Eastern time. So much for that day. Upon arriving, I took Laurie, my wife, and my mother out for a Mom's Day dinner. By the end of the meal, I'd picked up a little shiver, which I attributed to my metabolism reacting to a big meal after a long flight with little to eat.
If only. By the time we got back to my parents' home in Celebration, the shivers had grown into an intense case of the shakes, and I was running a 103-degree fever. Welcome to Orlando!
The next few days would bring colds for both the kids, a lingering stomach ailment and kidney stone scare for Laurie, and allergic reaction to Sudafed that left me with blisters all over the bottom of my feet. Juuuust the thing you want when embarking on a week-long theme park vacation.
On to the parks.
We visited Epcot on Tuesday evening, parking at the Swan and catching the motorboat launch over to the park. Epcot is Laurie's former park, as she worked as concertmaster for the Disney All-American College Orchestra back in the day. We all indulged her by stopping into see the lovely France movie, after grabbing a bite at the Yakitori House in Japan.
Don't try to save your pennies when visiting Epcot. If you can't afford to spend the money for one of the park's sit-down themed restaurants, don't bother visiting. The counter service Yakitori House was simply dreadful. Years ago, this was one of my favorite little restaurants. But, last week, the food lacked flavor and left everyone feeling a touch quesy.
Impressiones de France was, as always, a treat, even though the print is showing its age. But why must Epcot's cast members act as if they're attending a party to which we, the guests, aren't invited? I'm glad they are having a good time, but I'd like to have a good time, too.
The next day, we hit the Magic Kingdom for lunch and a little afternoon play time. We chose Pecos Bill's Café, and this time, made the correct choice. This place was the black hole of theme park dining when I worked in Magic Kingdom West, but today, Pecos Bill offers much-improved cheeseburgers and a tasty toppings bar.
After lunch, the kids indulged me with a trip over to my old attraction, Tom Sawyer's Island. After several recent trips to Disneyland, I was prepared for similar decay here. But to my surprise, I found the Island in even better condition than in my day. Brian adored the play area at the top of the old Cardiff Hill, and Natalie enjoyed exploring the fort, even if the toy air rifles are gone now.
Disney's taking far better care of the Magic Kingdom than Disneyland. Indeed, all the central Florida parks appeared in better physical condition than any park in Southern California. As a L.A. resident, it depressed me to see just how badly our parks are being maintained, when compared to those in Orlando.
We wrapped up with a swing through Fantasyland, so Natalie could say hello to the Little Mermaid (get a bigger bra, honey, you're falling out of that one!), and hop on Small World while Brian napped. The park closed at 6 p.m., so Disney kicked soon kicked us all out, and it was back to Celebration for dinner.
Thursday's destination: Animal Kingdom. Believe it or not, I hadn't been to this park before, so I left it to you folks to guide our day. I downloaded the wireless guide to Animal Kingdom to my Sony Clie before we left, and based our itinerary on your ratings.
You guys are the best. We started the day with lunch at the Flame Tree Barbecue. (As west coasters, we couldn't haul our jet-lagged behinds out of bed and into a park before 11:30.) Don't miss this place. The pulled pork was divine-smoky, flavorful and rich, without a drop of sauce-the way barbecue should be. The bun was so good that I saved a hunk and ate it with a pat of butter, just like a good dinner roll.
After that, we were off to Africa for the safari ride. Our hostess delivered her spiel well, and everyone enjoyed the tour. The end of the tour could use a rewrite, though. I don't have a problem with including a message about environmental awareness, and the scourge of poaching. But the way Disney handled that struck me as absurd. Come on, we know that the animals here aren't really in any danger. So don't ask us to believe that they are. Simply slowing down and taking a moment to rail about the tusks and other contraband at the poachers' camp, just before we "caught" them, would have made the point more effectively by not coming off as so manipulative and unrealistic. My $.02.
There's nothing I can add to the raves you've all offered for "Festival of the Lion King." The singers we got weren't the best, but a few vocal flubs didn't knock this performance from the show's perch as the best in any theme park that I've witnessed. Another must-see when visiting this park.
Our final stop was Dinoland, mostly so the kids could nap in the air conditioning at Restaurantosaurus. Laurie and I took advantage of the empty queue to go ride Dinosaur while Grandma watched the kids. From the site's reviewed I expected little.
We walked right on, and, lemme tell ya, the ride was worth the wait. What the heck was Disney thinking? It's so dark in there, you can barely see the dinosaurs. I wouldn't mind if at least this thing were a decent thrill ride in the dark. But Universal's Cat in the Hat offered nearly as much action.
One final note on Animal Kingdom: This place is hell with a stroller or wheelchair. I love theming, but I've never understood the need to theme pathways to the point where they become nearly unpassable to wheeled vehicles. Just keep the texture to the edges, and leave the middle of the roadways smooth. It'd look just as nice, and make pushing the pram a heck of a lot easy on us all.
As happy as I was with the accuracy of Theme Park Insider's ratings for Animal Kingdom, I anticipated Friday's trip to Universal Orlando with some fear. The upkeep, cast members, food and attractions at Magic Kingdom and Animal Kingdom had impressed me far more than those at any other park I'd visited in the past year. Yet on Theme Park Insider, we were recommending Islands of Adventure as Orlando's best park.
Were we wrong? Had Disney met the challenge? Had IOA slipped behind the Disney parks' high standard? Friday morning, we stepped into IOA and I soon had my answer.
Islands of Adventure is kicking Disney World's ass.
Folks, this is the center of the pop culture universe right now. Spider-Man. Hulk. Jurassic Park. Cat in the Hat. The park is *hopping*. Characters are everywhere, and every shop and food stand was open for business. School tour groups and families packed the place, and the cast members were strutting with confidence, and friendliness, that I haven't seen since Disneyland in Jack Lindquist era.
I had to drag the family out of this place. Natalie rode the Flying Unicorn twice and listened through the whole tale of the Lorax in Seuss Landing. And Brian couldn't get enough of the Cat in the Hat. But the last Barney show at Universal Studios Florida was at 4:30, and we'd promised Brian we wouldn't miss that. So at three, we headed over to USF.
Here's an example of how Universal's whipping Disney. Strollers. Disney's cost eight bucks. Universal's are seven. Disney's have two cup holders. Universal's have three. You have to leave Disney's strollers behind when you hop from one park to the other. We didn't have to wake Brian as we strolled from IOA over to USF.
The kids loved the Barney show, and adored the Barney's Backyard playground, especially the musical area. And both enjoyed a post-show romp through Fievel's Playground while Dad walked over to check out Men in Black.
There's just one word to describe MIB: Fun. I can see why some people could spend all day on this ride alone. Thanks to the single rider line, a snuck in three trips while the kids played, posting a best score of 213,000. (Is this good? I have no idea.) The theming, detail and show put Dinosaur to shame, and demonstrate how good a dark ride can be.
That's it. I know some folks do a full week in Orlando, with theme parks from morning 'til bedtime. Hey, I can't pull that gig anymore. When we visit Orlando, we only bother with the highlights. Based on this trip, next time, we'll likely just stick to Universal Orlando, and wait for Disney to open something new and compelling before returning there again.
One final thought: It was strange to witness the decline of 192. When Disney World first opened, 192 was the one and only access road into the Magic Kingdom. Over the years, it's become the low-price alternative for rooms and food for central Florida visitors.
Today, more places are closing on 192 than new venues opening. We ate at several restaurants on the strip, since it is so close to Celebration, and my parents don't cook. Everywhere, the story was the same. Things are slow. Too slow. So slow, that this might be the final summer in business for many places if there isn't great improvement over last year.
Perhaps there will be. But before you write this off as just the cost of an economic slowdown, take a look at all the construction north of Disney, between it and Universal. Hundreds of acres are being cleared as new hotels and motels rise out of the woods. Just as the opening of Disney-MGM and Epcot Drive in the 1980's helped steer development toward South International Drive, Universal is steering development north toward it, and away from 192.
Yes, it's gonna be a tough year in Orlando. Not all local businesses will survive. Hotels are discounting aggressively to pump up demand in the absence of any new attractions at the major theme parks. But the direction of development in Central Florida's theme parks is changing.
Bob Gault, Universal Orlando's president, has all but declared war on Disney's market share. That war is far from over. But right now, from what I saw last week, he's winning.
213K is quite good for only three tries. So you probably don't want to hear that I got 497K once. Hee! Did you get "the suit?" 213K would get it for you if everyone in your car didn't flop.
There was one area you didn't cover in your report that I find distressing: exactly what were the souvenirs they were selling in Seuss Landing?!?!?!?!!!!!
IOA and Universal have got the right formula. Something for every age and every taste. I just went there last month and I'm already saving my pennies to go back! It beats the snot out of every other theme park I've ever been to. (Although I still have a warm and fuzzy feeling for my old childhood stand-by.....Canobie Lake Park.):)
I didn't spend nearly enough time in Seuss Landing's gift shops--just enough time to eye a nice Cat in the Hat wall clock that I've instructed my mother pick up for the kids' birthdays.
And, no, I didn't make it back to the Mansion. I would have liked to spend more time in the Magic Kingdom, but the 6 p.m. close, coupled with our West Coast jet lag, left us very little time. Without a 23-month-old and a four-year-old in tow, I could have done the whole park, but I move at toddler pace now.
Which is too bad, because I didn't see anyone from my day in the MK when I was there.
Still, I am disappointed in you. Not bringing back a list of items in Seuss Landing is unforgivable. Fortunately they gave me their number last time I was there! Hee!
I know you seemed surprised by the appearance, upkeep, etc., of WDW on your visit...but that UO is definitely in the lead. Do you think there is a significant improvement, though, in how WDW was on your visit as compared to recent years? If so, in what way, and do you think Disney/WDW is on the upswing?
Thanks...
Either way, Disney's still running some good parks in Orlando. (And I didn't get to Studios on this trip, which the site's readers have rated the best of the bunch.)
I only wish the company could bring its California parks up to the same standard.
The irony for me is that 10 years ago, Disneyland beat the heck out of the Disney World parks on upkeep and general quality. Over that period, I do believe that there has been some improvement in Orlando. But mostly, the change has been due to a collapse in leadership on the west coast.
The cynic in me would say that Pressler's had, what, seven years to ruin California, but only a couple years to screw up Orlando.
The guys who put money back into their properties, deferring income instead of maintenance, are the ones who are going to survive, at least for the next several years. The make-all-our-money-now guys are falling away.
It's a lesson that everyone in business needs to be reminded of, but one that way too many often forget.
Long term, though, 192 and Kissimmee are going to need a new, popular attraction in the area to sustain existing businesses and provide some hope for growth. If I were on the county board in Osceola County, I'd have Six Flags, Paramount and Cedar Fair on speed dial.
And I am proud to say that I have recorded a score of 587,625 for Men In Black, although I've never been able to reach that high since. But be proud. For three rides, your total was great. Getting the cars average score is perhaps the only drag I got from this attraction, but turns out to be a necessary evil. And with the single riders line letting you jump right back on with very little wait, you'll eventually get in a car with people who are decent shots once in a while.
I must also give a big nod to the Studios being the highest rated here on the site. I went Friday last week and tried to cram in as much at all four parks as possible--I spent more time at MGM than I did at the three others. Very much enjoyed.
It'd be another discussion, where you could post when you are visiting what park, in case anyone else is visiting at the same time and wants to meet up.
If there's interest, we can start it up. But I don't want to start it up if no one's gonna use it. An empty discussion page is just so darn depressing.
Must... get... suit....
